Description:By the early twentieth century women were taking an increasing interest in sport. This led to special clothes being designed for particular activities. The popularity of cycling brought about some revolutionary developments, including bloomers that were considered very un-ladylike at the time. Lawn Tennis was still a relatively sedate occupation at this stage, and ladies’ tennis wear mirrored the current fashions.
The original tennis rule-book suggested that the game was more suited to men.<small><sup>1</sup></small> This is reflected in a resolution at The Edgbaston Archery and Lawn Tennis Society (EALTS) AGM in 1879 that ‘each Member (Gentleman) playing Tennis shall wear a distinctive costume of Dark Blue and White Flannel, failing this he shall play in his ordinary walking attire’.<small><sup>2</sup></small> However, women were clearly playing the game from the 1870s.<small><sup>3</sup></small> For both genders, looking appropriate seems to have been as important as the game itself, but women were particularly restricted by the conventions of modesty and male expectations. They played in long skirts and most continued to wear corsets to play; large hats were often worn too.<small><sup>4</sup></small> By 1910, lighter fabrics were being used, and some women were beginning to raise slightly their dress hems in order to make play easier; dresses were often made at home from patterns available in magazines.<small><sup>5</sup></small> This dress is made of linen, which would have been quite cool to wear, and the sleeves are elbow length for ease of movement. However, the heavy pleating at the front of the bodice also reflects the contemporaneous idealised feminine figure, created by corsetry, which forced the chest forward and the hips back. The elaborate embroidery and high lace collar, which is boned in order to keep it standing up around the neck, are typical of tennis clothes of the time.
Did the owner of this dress play at the Edgbaston Archery and Lawn Tennis Association? We cannot be sure, but it was donated by a Harborne resident to the museum in 1960, so it is certainly possible.
<font color="#666633"><small><sup>1</sup> Lawn Tennis, or Pelota, rules of the game as played by the Leamington Club (Leamington: D. Sarney, 1875)
<sup>2</sup> Edgbaston Archery and Lawn Tennis Society Minutes, 1879
<sup>3</sup> Susan J. Elks, From Whalebone to Lycra: a Fashion Journey through Midlands Lawn Tennis History, (Birmingham: S. J. Elks, 2004) p.11ff
<sup>4</sup> Elks, p.46
<sup>5</sup> Elks, p.47</small></font>